Veya Suite — Lilantia complex from the air

Location

Location

Beachfront in the Lilantia complex, Eretria.

The neighbourhood

Lilantia, Eretria

The Lilantia residential complex sits on the south coast of Evia between Eretria and Malakonta. The Aegean is calm and shallow here — the kind of water that's safe for kids and warm enough to swim in May. Behind the complex, the Lilantion plain spreads inland: olive groves, a couple of award-winning wineries, and the long ridge of Mt. Dirfys in the distance.

Eretria itself is one of the great ancient Greek poleis, with a 5th-century-BC theatre, the Temple of Apollo Daphnephoros, and a small but excellent archaeological museum — all within a 5-minute drive. Chalkida is a 20-minute drive in the opposite direction; Athens is 90 minutes by car or by ferry.

The island

Evia

Evia (Εύβοια, also spelled Euboea) is Greece's second-largest island after Crete — 3,700 km² stretching 180 km along the mainland coast, separated by the narrow Euripus Strait at Chalkida. Around 190,000 people live here, mostly in small coastal towns and inland villages. Settlement goes back to the Bronze Age; Homer mentioned it in the Iliad, and in the 8th century BC, Eretria and Chalkida sent traders and colonists across the Mediterranean — from southern Italy to the Black Sea.

Compared to the Cyclades, Evia stays unhurried. Olive groves and vineyards spread inland, pine forests climb Mt. Dirfys (1,743 m), and the thermal springs at Edipsos have been in continuous use since antiquity. Most visitors are Greek; you'll hear less English than on Mykonos or Santorini, the prices reflect that, and the village taverna at lunchtime is more often half-full of regulars than tour groups.